Château de Chenonceau as seen from Diane
de Poitiers' gardens
View of the arches and west facade of the
Pont de Diane over the River Cher
The port of entrance
The Stained Glass in the Chapel
The Gallery
Chenonceau kitchen stove
Francois I's bedroom
and the Louis XIV Living Room in 2005
Louise of Lorraine's bedroom
Catherine de Medici Gardens
The Château de Chenonceaux, near the small village of Chenonceaux, in the
Indre-et-Loire département of the Loire Valley in France, was built on
the site of an old mill on the River Cher, sometime before its first
mention in writing in the 11th century. The current manor was designed
by the French Renaissance architect Philibert Delorme.
History The original manor was torched in 1411 to punish owner
Jean Marques for an act of sedition. He rebuilt a castle and fortified
mill on the site in the 1430s. Subsequently, his indebted heir Pierre
Marques sold the castle to Thomas Bohier, Chamberlain for King Charles
VIII of France in 1513. Bohier destroyed the existing castle and built
an entirely new residence between 1515 and 1521; the work was sometimes
overseen by his wife Katherine Briçonnet, who delighted in hosting
French nobility, including King François I on two occasions.
Eventually, the château was seized from Bohier's son by François
I for unpaid debts to the Crown, and after François' death in 1547,
Henry II offered the château as a gift to his mistress, Diane de
Poitiers who became fervently attached to the château and its view along
the river. She would have the arched bridge constructed, joining the
château to its opposite bank. She then oversaw the planting of extensive
flower and vegetable gardens along with a variety of fruit trees. Set
along the banks of the river, but buttressed from flooding by stone
terraces, the exquisite gardens were laid out in four triangles.
Diane de Poitiers was the unquestioned mistress of the castle,
but ownership remained with the crown until 1555, when years of delicate
legal maneuvers finally yielded possession to her. However, after King
Henry II died in 1559, his strong-willed widow and regent Catherine de'
Medici had Diane expelled. Because the estate no longer belonged to the
crown, she could not seize it outright, but forced Diane to exchange it
for the Château Chaumont. Queen Catherine then made Chenonceau her own
favorite residence, adding a new series of gardens.
As Regent of France, Catherine would spend a fortune on the
château and on spectacular nighttime parties. In 1560, the first ever
fireworks display seen in France took place during the celebrations
marking the ascension to the throne of Catherine's son François II. The
grand gallery, which extended along the existing bridge to cross the
entire river, was dedicated in 1577.
On Catherine's death in 1589 the château went to her
daughter-in-law, Louise de Lorraine-Vaudémont, wife of King Henri III.
At Chenonceau Louise was told of her husband's assassination and she
fell into a state of depression, spending the remainder of her days
wandering aimlessly along the château's vast corridors dressed in
mourning clothes amidst somber black tapestries stitched with skulls and
crossbones.
Another mistress took over in 1624, when Gabrielle d'Estrées, the
favourite of King Henri IV, inhabited the castle. After that, it was
owned by Louise's heir César of Vendôme and his wife, Françoise of
Lorraine, Duchess of Vendôme, and passed quietly down the Valois line of
inheritance, alternately inhabited and abandoned for more than a hundred
years.
Château de Chenonceau was bought by the Duke of Bourbon in 1720.
Little by little, he sold off all of the castle's contents. Many of the
fine statues ended up at Versailles. The estate itself was finally sold
to a squire named Claude Dupin.
Claude's wife (daughter of financier Samuel Bernard and
grandmother of George Sand), Madame Louise Dupin, brought life back to
the castle by entertaining the leaders of The Enlightenment: Voltaire,
Montesquieu, Buffon, Bernard le Bovier de Fontenelle, Pierre de
Marivaux, and Jean-Jacques Rousseau. She saved the château from
destruction during the French Revolution, preserving it from being
destroyed by the Revolutionary Guard because it was essential to travel
and commerce, being the only bridge across the river for many miles. She
is said to be the one who changed the spelling of the Château (from
Chenonceaux to Chenonceau) to please the villagers during the French
Revolution. She dropped the "x" at the end of the Château's name to
differentiate what was a symbol of royalty from the Republic. Although
no official sources have been found to support this legend, the Château
has been since referred to and accepted as Chenonceau.
In 1864, Daniel Wilson, a Scotsman who had made a fortune
installing gaslights throughout Paris, bought the château for his
daughter. In the tradition of Catherine de' Medici, she would spend a
fortune on elaborate parties to such an extent that her finances were
depleted and the château was seized and sold to José-Emilio Terry, a
Cuban millionaire, in 1891. Terry sold it in 1896 to a family member,
Francisco Terry, and in 1913, the Menier family, famous for their
chocolates, bought the château and still own it to this day.
During World War I the gallery was used as a hospital ward;
during the Second War it was a means of escaping from the Nazi occupied
zone on one side of the River Cher to the "free" Vichy zone on the
opposite bank.
In 1951, the Menier family entrusted the château's restoration to
Bernard Voisin, who brought the dilapidated structure and the gardens
(ravaged in the Cher River flood in 1940) back to a reflection of its
former glory.
An architectural mixture of late Gothic and early Renaissance,
Château de Chenonceau and its gardens are open to the public. Other than
the Royal Palace of Versailles, Chenonceau is the most visited château
in France.
Inside Chenonceau
The forecourt and the Marques tower
In rebuilding the Chenonceau château in the 16th century, Thomas
Bohier razed the castle-keep and the fortified mill of the Marques
family, erecting the new château upon the piers of the former mill and
keeping only the ancient donjon: The Marques Tower, which he transformed
in Renaissance style. The forecourt reproduces the layout of the former
medieval castle demarcated by the moats. Next to the tower, there is
also a well decorated with a chimaera and an eagle - the emblem of the
Marques family.
The monumental entrance, dating from the period of François I, is
made from sculpted and painted wood. It has: on the left, the coat of
arms of Thomas Bohier, on the right those of his wife Katherine
Briçonnet - the builders of Chenonceau - topped by the salamander of
François I and the inscription "François, by the grace of God, King of
France and Claude, Queen of the French".
The Guard's room Originally this room was used by armed men, where they
took time off their feet to rest.
Thomas Bohier's arms decorate the 16th century chimney, and on
the 16th century oak door, beneath the figures of their patron saints
(Saint Catherine and Saint Thomas), the motto of Thomas Bohier and
Catherine Briçonnet: "S'il vient à point, me souviendra) meaning: "If I
manage to build Chenonceau, I will be remembered".
On the walls, a suite of 16th century Flemish tapestries
represents scenes from castle life, a request for marriage and a hunt.
The chests are Gothic and Renaissance. During the 16th century they
contained silverware, crockery and tapestries with which the Court moved
from one residence to another.
The ceiling, with exposed joists, has an intertwining "H" and "C"
for Henri II and Catherine de' Medici. However, to show his love for
Diane de Poitiers, Henri had the ceiling created to look like a "D" and
an "H". On the floor are the remains of 16th century majolica.
The Chapel
From the Guards' Room, the Chapel can be reached through a door
topped with a Statue of the Virgin. The leaves of this oak door
represent Christ and Saint Thomas, and repeat the words of the Gospel
according to Saint John "Lay your finger here" "You are my Lord and my
God" (John 20:27).
The original windows in this room were destroyed by a bombing in
1944; the modern stained glass windows were made by the master
glassworker Max Ingrand in 1954. In the loggia on the right rests a
Virgin and Child made from carrara marble by Mino da Fiesole. Dominating
the nave, the royal gallery where the queens attended Mass shows the
date 1521.
To the right of the altar is a finely carved credence table which
is decorated with the Bohier motto.
Inscriptions were left upon the walls of the chapel by Queen Mary
Stuart's Scottish guards: on the right, "Man's anger does not accomplish
God's Justice" (dated 1543) and "Do not let yourself be won over by
Evil" (dated 1546).
On the walls are several paintings with religious subjects: The
Virgin in a blue veil by Il Sassoferrato, Jesus preaching before
Ferdinand and Isabella by Alonso Cano, Saint Anthony of Padua by
Murillo, and Assumption by Jouvenet.
The chapel was saved during the French Revolution by Madame Dupin,
who had the idea of turning it into a wood store.
Diane de Poiters' bedroom The room used by Diane de Poitiers, mistress of Henry
II, has a fireplace by Jean Goujon, a French sculptor of the
Fontainebleau school, which bears the initials of Henri II and Catherine
de' Medici: interlaced Hs and Cs that could be considered as forming the
D of "Diane". The coffered ceiling also contains these initials.
The four-poster bed dates from the early 17th century and the
Henry II armchairs are covered with cordovan leather. Over the fireplace
is a 19th century portrait of Catherine de' Medici by Sauvage.
Two 16th century Flanders tapestries, of considerable size,
portray :
- The triumph of Strength, riding on a chariot drawn by two
lions, and surrounded by scenes from the Old Testament. The sentence in
Latin running along the upper border can be translated as “He who loves
the gifts of heaven with all his heart, does not shrink from deeds that
Piety dictates”.
- The triumph of Charity, seen on a chariot, holding a heart in
her hand and pointing to the sun ; she is surrounded by biblical
episodes. The Latin inscription here can be translated as : "He who
shows strength of heart in the face of danger, receives Salvation as a
reward at his time of death".
To the left of the window, Virgin with child by Murillo.
To the right of the fireplace, there is a painting of the 18th
century Italian school : Christ stripped of his clothes, by Francisco
Ribalta, Jusepe de Ribera's master. Below this painting stands a
bookcase holding the archives of Chenonceau ; one of the volumes, to be
seen the showcase, bears the signatures of Thomas Bohier and Diane de
Poitiers.
Green study Catherine de' Medici, who became Regent of the kingdom
during the minority of King Charles IX, ruled France from the study at
Chenonceau. On the 16th century ceiling in its original state, you can
make out two intertwining "C"s, and two 16th century Italian cabinets
surround the door.
The exceptional 16th century Brussels tapestry known as "To the
birthwort", both Gothic and Renaissance, is inspired by the discovery of
the Americas, and their fauna and flora: it contains Peruvian silver
pheasants, pineapples, orchids, pomegranates, animals and vegetables
which until then were unknown in Europe. Its original green colour has
been turning to blue with age.
On the walls, a collection of paintings of which the most
important are:
Tintoretto The Queen of Sheba and «Portrait of a Doge
Jacob Jordaens Ivory Catchfly Hendrik Goltzius Samson and the Lion Jean Jouvenet Jesus chasing the merchants from the Temple
Bartholomeus Spranger Allegorical Scene painted on metal
Paolo Veronese Study of a woman's head Nicolas Poussin The flight to Egypt Anthony van Dyck Child with Fruits
Library The small room, which used to be Catherine de' Medici's,
has a magnificent view of the Cher River and Diane's Garden.
The Italian style oak coffer ceiling dating from 1525, with small
hanging keys, is one of the first of this type known in France. It has
the initials of the Château's builder's T.B.K. for Thomas Bohier and
Katherine Briçonnet.
Above the door is the Holy Family by Andrea Del Sarto, and on
both sides:
Scenes from the life of Saint Benedict by Jacopo Bassano
A Martyr by Antonio da Correggio Héliodore by Jean Jouvenet Two medallions Hébé and Ganymède, the cupbearers of the Gods,
relieved near Olympia are of the 17th century French School.
The Gallery
From Diane de Poitiers' bedroom, a small passage returns to the
Gallery.
In 1576, according to the plans of Philibert de l'Orme, Catherine
de' Medici built a magnificent ballroom gallery upon the bridge of Diane
de Poitiers. It is sixty metres long, six metres wide, lit by eighteen
windows, with a sandy chalk tiled and slate floor and exposed joist
ceiling.
It was inaugurated in 1577 during festivities hosted by Catherine
de' Medici in honour of her son Henri III.
Each end holds a very beautiful Renaissance chimney, of which the
one surrounding the Southern door (which leads to the left bank of the
Cher) is only decorative.
The medallions on the walls were added in the 18th century and
represent famous people.
During the First World War, Monsieur Gaston Menier, owner of
Chenonceau, installed at his own expense a hospital whose different
services occupied all of the Château's rooms.
During the Second World War, many people took advantage of the
privileged location of the Gallery, whose Southern door provided access
to the Free zone, whilst the Château's entrance was in the occupied
zone.
The Hall The hall is covered with a series of rib vaults whose
keystones, detached from each other, form a broken line. The baskets are
decorated with foliage, roses, cherubs, chimeras, and cornucopia. Made
in 1515, it is one of the most beautiful examples of decorative
sculpting from the French Renaissance period.
At the entrance, above the doors, two recesses house the statues
of Saint John the Baptist, patron saint of Chenonceau and Italian
Masdone in the style of Luca della Robbia. The Italian marble hunters'
table is Renaissance.
Above the entrance door, a 1954 stained-glass window by Max
Ingrand represents the legend of Saint Hubert.
Kitchens
Chenonceau kitchen stoveChenonceau's kitchens are located in the
huge bases which form the first two piers sitting on the bed of the
river Cher. A bridge crosses from one pier to the other, leading to the
kitchen itself. A platform where boats with supplies would draw
alongside is, according to the legend, called Diane's bath.
The pantry is a low room with two intersecting vaults. Its 16th
century chimney is the Château's largest, next to the bread oven.
The pantry serves:
The Dining room: reserved for Château staff. The Butchery: in which you can still see the hooks for hanging
game and the blocks for cutting it up. The Larder. During the First World War, the Renaissance Kitchens were fitted
with the modern equipment that was needed for the Château to be
transformed into a hospital.
Francois I's bedroom
This room has a beautiful Renaissance chimney, and on the
mantelpiece is the motto of Thomas Bohier - "S'il vient à point, me
souviendra" (If the building is finished, it will preserve the memory of
the man who built it) - which echoes his coat of arms above the door.
The furniture consists of three 15th century French credence
tables and a 16th century Italian cabinet, exceptional with its
mother-of-pearl and fountain-pen engraved ivory incrustations, a wedding
present offered to François II and Mary Stuart.
On the wall hangs a portrait of Diane de Poitiers as Diane the
Huntress, by Francesco Primaticcio, a painter of the Fontainebleau
School. The portrait was painted at Chenonceau in 1556; its frame bears
the arms of Diane de Poitiers, duchess of Etampes.
On both sides are paintings by Mirevelt, Ravenstein, and a
self-portrait by Van Dyck. Next to it is a large portrait of Gabrielle
d'Estrées as the huntress Diana by Ambroise Dubois. Surrounding the
window is Archimedes by Francisco Zurbarán, and Two Bishops of the 17th
century German School. To the right of the chimney, The three graces by
Jean-Baptiste van Loo represents the "Mesdemoiselles" from Nesle, three
sisters who were successive favourites of King Louis XV: Madame de
Châteauroux, Vintimille, Mailly.
Louis XIV living room
In memory of the visit he made to Chenonceau on July 14th 1650,
Louis XIV much later offered his uncle the duc de Vendôme his portrait
by Hyacinthe Rigaud, with an extraordinary frame by Lepautre, made up of
only four huge pieces of wood - as well as the furniture covered in
Aubusson tapestries and a Boulle style console.
On the Renaissance chimney, the Salamander and the Stoat conjure
up the memory of François I and Queen Claude of France.
Surrounding the ceiling with exposed joists, the cornice has the
initials of the Bohier family (T.B.K.). Above the console, "The child
Jesus and Saint John the Baptist" by Rubens, purchased in 1889 at the
sale of the King of Spain's Collection, Joseph Bonaparte, Napoleon's
brother.
The living room also offers a beautiful series of 18th century
French paintings:
Van Loo Portrait of King Louis XV Nattier Princess of Rohan Netscher Portrait of Chamillard, Minister of Louis XIV and
Portrait of Man Ranc Portrait of Philip V, King of Spain Also, a large portrait of Samuel Bernard, Louis XIV's banker by
Mignard.
Samuel Bernard, who was very rich, was also the father of Madame
Dupin, whose grace and intelligence are underlined in her portrait by
Nattier. Madame Dupin, grandmother by marriage to George Sand, was the
owner of Chenonceau in the 18th century. A friend of the Encyclopaedists,
she was host to Voltaire, Rousseau, Montesquieu, Diderot, d'Alembert,
Fontenelle and Bernardin de Saint-Pierre.
Her kindness and generosity saved Chenonceau from destruction
during the French Revolution.
The staircase From the hall, an 16th century oak door provides access
to the staircase. Its sculpted leaves represent Old Law (under the
figure of a blindfolded lady, with a book and a pilgrim's stick) and New
Law (with an uncovered face and holding a palm and a chalice).
The staircase leading to the first floor is remarkable because it
is one of the first straight staircases – or banister on banister –
built in France based on the Italian model. It is covered with a pitch
vault with ribs intersecting at right-angles, the joints are decorated
with keystones, the coffers are decorated with human figures, fruits and
flowers (certain designs were hammered during the Revolution).
The staircase with two banisters is intersected by a landing
forming loggia with a balustrade from which you can discover a view over
the Cher.
A very beautiful former Medallion decorates the beginning of the
second ascent, it represents a woman's bust with scattered hair.
Catherine Briconnet's hall The First Floor hall is tiled with small baked clay
tiles stamped with a fleur de lis crossed by a dagger. The ceiling has
exposed joists.
Above the doors, marble medallions, brought from Italy by
Catherine de' Medici, show Roman emperors : Galba, Claudius, Germanicus,
Vitellius and Nero. The suite of six 17th century audernade tapesteries
represents hunting scenes according to Van Der Meulen's sketches.
Five queen's bedroom
This bedroom is thus named in memory of Catherine de' Medici's
two daughters and three daughters-in-law. Queen Margot (wife of Henri
IV), Elisabeth of Valois (wife of Philip II of Spain), her daughters and
Mary Stuart (wife of François II), Elisabeth of Austria (wife of Charles
IX), Louise of Lorraine (wife of Henri III), her daughters-in-law.
The 16th century coffer ceiling displays the Five Queen's
coats-of-arms. The chimney is from the Renaissance period.
The walls are covered with a 16th Century Flemish tapestry suite
representing : the siege of Troy and the kidnapping of Hélène, Circus
Games in the Coliseum and the crowning of King David. Another tapestry
shows an episode from the life of Samson.
The furniture made up of a large four poster bed, two Gothic
credence tables topped with the heads of two women in polychrome wood
and a studded travel chest.
On the walls :
Rubens Worshipping the Wise Men is a study for the large painting
which today is in the Prado Museum Mignard Portrait of the Duchess of Olonne 17th century Italian school Apollo at the home of Admete the
Argonaut
Catherine de' Medici's bedroom This bedroom has beautiful 16th century sculpted furniture and is
decorated with a series of 16th century Flemish tapesteries retracing
Samson's life.
They are remarkable for their edges filled with animals
symbolising proverbs and fables, for example the fable of The Crayfish
and the Oyster or Skill is greater than Cunning.
The chimney and the floor tiles are Renaissance.
To the right of the bed The teaching of Love by Correggio painted
on wood, of which the London National Gallery has a version painted on
canvas
Estampes exhibition room These small apartments decorated with a ceiling and
chimney dating from the 18th century in one part and from the 16th
century in the second, bring together a collection of drawings and
engravings of Chenonceau of which the oldest dates back to 1560 and the
most recent to the 19th century.
Cesar of Vendome's bedroom This room reminds us of Cesar of Vendôme, son of King Henri IV
and Gabrielle d'Estrées, who became owner of Chenonceau in 1624.
The following are worth noting :
A most beautiful ceiling with exposed joists which support a
cornice decorated with canons. The renaissance chimney was painted in the 19th century with
Thomas Bohier's coat-of-arms. The window opening to the West is surrounded by two 17th century
wooden caryatids. The walls are hung with a suite of three 17th century Brussels
tapestries illustrating the ancient myth of Demeter and Persephone.
The journey of Demeter and Persephone to Hell gives its fruits to
Mankind, Persephone returns to spend six months on Earth, a mythological
symbol for the alternating seasons. The most beautiful edges, typical of Brussels, represent the
garlands of fruits and flowers coming from the cornucopia.
The four-poster bed and the furniture in this room are from the
16th century. To the left of the window is a painting by Murillo, Portrait of
Saint Joseph.
Gabrielle d'Estrées' bedroom This bedroom evokes the memory of Gabrielle d'Estrées,
King Henri IV's favourite, and mother to his legitimate son César of
Vendôme.
The ceiling with visible joists, the ground, the chimney and the
furniture are Renaissance. Near to the four-poster bed, a 16th century
flemish tapestry.
Hanging on the three other walls is a very rare suite of
tapestries known as The Lucas months:
June - Cancer. The shearing of sheep. July - Leo. Falcon hunting. August - Virgo. Paying the Harvesters. Their sketches are by Lucas van Leyden or Lucas Van Nevele. Above
the cabinet, a 17th century Florence school canvas represents Saint
Cecilia, patron saint of musicians. Above the door, Francisco Ribalta
Child to the Lamb.
Second floor hall This hall has kept intact the restoration work carried
out during the 19th century by the architect Roguet, one of
Viollet-le-Duc's disciples. Note the 19th century Neuilly tapestry
symbolizing the Cher, on which a Venetian gondola is portrayed; the
gondola was actually brought to Chenonceau in the 19th century, with its
gondolier, by Madame Pelouze, the owner at that time. The two credence
tables as well as the floor stones are Renaissance
Louise of Lorraine's bedroom
Louise of Lorraine's bedroomFollowing the assassination of her
husband King Henri III by the monk Jacques Clément on August 1st 1589,
Louise of Lorraine retired to Chenonceau in meditation and prayer.
Surrounded by nuns who lived in the château as in a convent, and
always dressed in white in compliance with the etiquette of royal
mourning, she was known as "the White Queen". Her bedroom has been
reconstructed around the original ceiling. It is decorated with mourning
objects : silver tears, widows' cordons, crowns of thorns and the Greek
letter - l - lambda, Louise's initial, intertwined with the H of Henri
III.
The devout and mournful atmosphere of this room is highlighted by
Christ with a crown of thorns and the religious scene – a 16th century
painting on wood – which decorates the chimney. The furniture is from
the 16th century.
The gardens
As you leave the Château, you will discover the gardens which
surround it.
On the right, Diane de Poitiers' garden, the entrance to which is
overlooked by the Steward's house: La Chancellerie, built in the 16th
century. In the centre of the garden, there is a fountain described by
Jacques Androuet du Cerceau in his book entitled Les plus Excellents
Bâtiments de France (The most Excellent Buildings in France - 1576).
This garden is protected from flooding by the Cher by elevated
terraces from which there are beautiful views over the borders and over
the Château. On the left, The more intimate garden of Catherine de'
Medici, with a central pool and from which we discover the West façade.
The Gardens' floral decoration changes in the spring and in the
summer needs 130,000 bedding plants grown on the Estate to be planted.
Lining the Court of Honour, the domes building, from the 16th century,
formerly housed the Royal Stables and the silk worm farm introduced into
France by Catherine de' Medici. Also, the 16th century farm and the 70
hectare park can also be visited.
Alongside the Grand Avenue of Plane trees, in the centre of the
arbour and facing the caryatides, a maze with two thousand yews has been
planted in the spirit of Catherine de' Medici's time, according to an
Italian plan dating from 1720.