Château de Valençay is a residence of the d'Estampes
and Talleyrand-Périgord families in the commune of Valençay, the Indre
département of France. Although geographically it is part of the
province of Berry, its architecture invites comparison with the
Renaissance châteaux of the Loire Valley, notably the Château de
Chambord. The manor was praised as "one of the most beautiful on earth"
by George Sand, who also noted that "no king has owned a more
picturesque park".
History The château, sited at the edge of a plateau that overlooks the
little Nahon river, was built on a royal scale by the d'Estampes family
of financiers over a period of some 200 years. Construction started in
1540 at the behest of Jacques d'Estampes in place of the demolished
12th-century castle and was not completed until the 18th century, when
the south tower was added.
The 18th century saw a rapid succession of owners, including the
notorious Scottish banker John Law, who purchased the estate in 1719.
Half a century later, in 1803, Napoleon ordered (not asked) his foreign
minister Charles Maurice de Talleyrand to acquire the property as a
place particularly appropriate for reception of foreign dignitaries,
notably Ferdinand VII of Spain, who would spend six pleasant years in
Napoleonic gilded captivity at Valençay.
The period of Talleyrand's occupancy was the golden age in the
history of Valençay, with twenty three communes reportedly administrated
by the ruling prince. Undoubtedly the most celebrated of Talleyrand's
servants employed at Valençay was his chef, Marie-Antoine Carême. After
Talleyrand's death in 1838, the great statesman was buried in a small
mortuary chapel in the park. His collateral descendants retained the
ownership of the estate until 1952, when the male line ended. The last
prince bequeathed the property to his stepson, who sold it to an
association of historic chateaux in 1979.
The Princes of Talleyrand-Perigord ranked among the mediatized
German nobility, by virtue of their nominal control of the duchy of
Sagan in Prussian Silesia (now in Poland). On this technicality, the
château was spared the German occupation during the Second World War.
Having established his personal neutrality, the Duke of Sagan saw
treasures from the Louvre (like the Winged Victory of Samothrace and the
Venus de Milo) safely sheltered at Valençay.
Features
Relics of the 16th century
include an outsized round tower at the western corner, capped by a dome
à l'impériale, and the central block in the shape of a donjon, with a
slender tower on each corner, grouped around the raking roof. Its
feigned battlements are evocative of the Middle Ages, a retrospective
formula stylistically derived from Chambord but somewhat vitiated by
ample fenestration, including characteristic Renaissance dormers.
The exterior has withstood time and the elements remarkably well.
It is clothed in classical orders: the Doric order on the ground floor,
the Ionic order on the first floor, and the Corinthian order on the
second. This was an innovative feature anticipating French classicism.
An arcaded gallery rings the courtyard. The western wing with its
Mansard roof dates from the 17th century.
Talleyrand's château boasts one of the most advanced interiors of
the Empire style anywhere. There are a hundred rooms, of which a quarter
comprise Talleyrand's apartments. A room of King Ferdinand is also shown
to tourists. The western wing contains the Talleyrand Museum, formerly
housed in outbuildings, and Le Musée de l'Automobile du Centre,
exhibiting over fifty vintage and antique automobiles.
The formal French gardens, dating from the early 20th century,
cover about forty hectares, not counting the area of Talleyrand's
vineyards. Llamas, peacocks, and other exotic animals kept in the park
provide amusement for tourists.
References R.P. Raoul. Guide historique de Valençay. Le château-l'église-le
tombeau de Talleyrand. Chateauroux: Laboureur, 1953.