This
fabulous mansion is impossible to miss when you walk down the central
street of Isle Saint-Louis. The recently-cleaned and heavily-ornamented
façade contains all the important features of Rococo. Notice the
excessive detail and curvaceous playfulness, so different from the
geometric shapes of Baroque. What’s particularly fascinating about this
style is that it has a fresh, light feeling despite its overwrought
decoration. Here, the wonderful balcony is supported by absurd sea
creatures and shells which show the “C” and “S” lines so important to
Rococo. Rococo buildings often include flower, seashell, and bamboo stem
motifs, while interior decoration reflected a fashion for the Far East
with elaborate Chinese-inspired rooms and “singerie” patterns (walls
painted with monkeys dressed in exotic costumes.) If the courtyard of
this hôtel is open, walk through to admire the overall lines of the
building, although behind the glorious facade, some of the apartments
are sadly dilapidated. Through the doorway to the right, marked “E”,
you’ll find the original curving staircase, complete with its
dragon-ornamented banister. If the weather is warm, you can sit for a
moment on the cool marble bench here at the foot of the stairs and think
of the lovely allegories painted by Watteau. The Rococo rooms above you
once would have echoed down these stairs with conversations about
harmony, humanism, and the nature of beauty.